PAINTING YOUR R/C MODEL SUBMARINE

Paint the model after you have operated the boat at the lake on a number of occasions. By postponing the painting operation you have allowed the model to suffer the inevitable scratches, nicks and 'dings' that came as you learned how to steer your model above and blow the surface.

You can knock out the painting job in an afternoon using nothing more exotic than two cans of Krylon paint (about $2 each) and some low tack masking tape. This is the system we use to paint our r/c model submarines:

Here are basic model surface preparation tasks you will have to perform before laying down the paint, along with a brief introduction about the tools, techniques, and consumables used to achieve a good finish:

METAL PARTS PREPARATION AND PRIMING

First thing you do with the cast metal items is to carefully trim away the small runners and flash using a sharp knife.

WARNING - INSURE YOU WORK IN A WELL VENTILATED SPACE AND OBSERVE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS REQUIRED FOR ACID WORK

Prepare metal parts for priming by pickling them in Ferric Chloride acid. Dunk them in the acid until the metals surface turns a dark grey - about 30 second at room temperature. The pickling produces millions of microscopic pits on the surface of the parts, greatly enhancing the paints ability to adhere to the metal. The metal parts are then washed with soap and water, rinsed, dried and primed. Do not sand or scrub with steel wool.

Prim the metal parts with Krylon 'Red Primer'.

PREPARING THE MODEL FOR PAINTING

During the initial runs at the lake the models primer surface has absorbed varying amounts of algae, minerals, oils, even duck poop... some of these materials not conducive to good paint adhesion.

Prepare the model for painting by lightly scrubbing its surface with water mixed with a little detergent soap and a hunk of '0000' steel wool. Rinse off all parts under running water and leave everything to air out thoroughly.

REPAIRING SURFACE DAMAGE

Likely your model has already collects a few nicks, dings, and scratches. Time to make some body repairs: This is done with as little touch-up putty and/or Bondo as possible. Use Bondo type fillers on scratches and nicks deeper than 1/16". Use automotive touch-up putty on the shallower scratches. When hard, file excessive putty away, followed by careful wet sanding of the repaired spot with #400, used wet; the object is to contour the puttied surface even with the surrounding undamaged surfaces. Lay down some primer over putty areas, and sand again with the #400 when dry.

For r/c submarines representing modern Soviet or American combat submarines we recommend Krylon brand spray paints. All you need is a can of Flat Black, and Primer Red. A few cautionary words about using the Krylon spray cans: You'll find that the paint comes out of the spray nozzle real heavy - this paint is intended for much larger work.

When painting with a Krylon spray can, hold the can nozzle at least 18" away from the work and keep the can in motion as you spray or you may get a run on the model - make long, broad passes. It's best if you first practice on a piece of cardboard to get your technique worked out before shooting the model. Don't try and get complete coverage in one pass, make several quick passes with the spray can rather than one slow pass.

Masking tape will be needed to achieve the sharp demarcation line between the red and black colors. From an artist's supply store or paint shop, purchase the low tack blue masking tape produced by the 3M company - its lower adhesion to the models surface is less likely to pull up paint when it is removed.

Don't use the tape right off the roll. First, place a two foot length of tape down on a scrap piece of plastic and, using a sharp knife and straight-edge, cut it lengthwise into several 1/8" and 1/16" wide strips. Note only are the narrow strips of tape easier to lay down around sharpe curves, the sharp edge produced by the knife are crisper than the one from the roll.

DISASSEMBLING THE MODEL

This will make painting a whole lot easier. Separate the hull halves. Remove the control surfaces and propeller, then mask and paint

PAINTING

Here's the part where you demonstrate great skill with masking tape and spray can... or fall completely on your ass!

At the time of commissioning, most boats sport the hull numbers on the sail, ships name, and draft markings on the hull and upper rudder.

(Some will scream that 'operational' boats don't display hull numbers and names, and don't paint the escape buoy fairing plates 'international orange'... and their right. But, I put them on the model to make it more visible when running under water. Besides, the boats did display numbers and name during their shake-down tests and pre-deployment ceremonies...so, for the critics out there, there's your precedence for displaying hull numbers and name).

CAUTION: SPRAY PAINTING LIBERATES SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF POTENTIALLY HARMFUL CHEMICALS. BREATH THROUGH A CHARCOAL TYPE RESPIRATOR AND WORK OUTDOORS WHEN APPLYING SPRAY-PAINT.

APPLYING THE DRY-TRANSFER MARKINGS

Something new on the scene are custom made dry-transfer markings. The markings are applied after the painting has been completed. The advantage of dry-transfers over the more traditional water-slide type decals is they don't require any special surface preparation nor do they leave an unsightly carrier film boarder.

Exercise care not to inadvertently apply pressure to the face of the carrier film while positioning the markings over the model or you might accidentally stick a marking where you don't want it.

With scissors, cut out each marking and position each over the surface of the model with low tack masking tape. Use the provided drawing as a location guide.

(insert sketch of applying dry-transfers)

To transfer a marking form the stiff carrier film to the model: apply a gentile rubbing motion to the carrier film directly over the marking (a proper burnishing tool is recommended, but a tapered dowel with a rounded point will do the job almost as well). The applied pressure forces the adhesive side of the marking to adhere to the models surface. After all characters have been laid down slowly peel away the carrier film - the marking should remain on the surface of the model. Very carefully with your finger push down on each transferred marking to further set its adhesive into the microscopic crevices of the models surface (the oil in your finger will prevent the marking from sticking to you).

After all the dry-transfers have been applied to your model, we strongly recommend applying a flat clear coat over them as they are not completely water-proof and over time will fade and fall off the model if not protected. Krylon semi-gloss clear coat is fine, just take care to apply it with very fast strokes to slowly build up the protective coat - putting the clear coat down too heavy will chemically attack the markings and ruin them!

DETAIL PAINTING

On American submarines, the mast farings, snorkel mast, and the heads of the two scopes receive the distinctive black 'leopard spots'. The black spots are best applied with a 0/.35mm technical pen loaded with black ink. A '000' brush can also be used to achieve the spots if the pen is not available. Practice applying the spots on a scrap piece of plastic until you are confident enough to work on the parts themselves.

(sketch showing painting of 'leopard spots')